Chef Yamashita Revisited : NEW Summer Cakes 2015

Within six months after the last time I tried Chef Yamashita's cakes in December 2014, I was delighted to find some new creations on display during a meetup with my matcha comrade Shirley @ littlemissbento. His strive for innovation is truly a move to applause as most pastry shops in Singapore do not change the items since day one. Not that it is a bad thing but it is always a wise strategy to have a mixture of new and classics items in order to stay competitive. 

For instance, two new items (probably not so new by the time you read this) that were the Yonashi Tart ($6.30) and Framboise ($6.80) . Unlike the classic pear tart that is layered with slices, the pears are cut into chunks and baked together with the custard. I suspect some juices might have seeped into the custard during the baking process which made it more flavourful. 

The Framboise was definitely a big surprise because I never thought that Nama chocolate could be placed in the centre, enrobed in white chocolate mousse and subsequently a raspberry mousse. Yet the nama chocolate was not texturally awkward, instilling another layer of dark romantic mood to this pretty spring dessert.   

On the other hand, it is relief to see that good classics stay on the shelf. For instance, the Ichigo Soufflé ($6.50) has a livid cheese character without being too dry. It also has a more substantial layer of whipped cream and a cottony texture than the one from Chateraise. 

The Mount Fuji ($6.80) defied the rules of a classic Mont Blanc but in a good way. Beneath the luscious chestnut cream is a layer of light ️fresh cream, intense chocolate sponge and a  slice of puff pastry that succumbed to moisture unfortunately. Yet this is not a big sugar hit and way better than Okada's version.

Tricky ingredients such as yuzu are articulated deftly in this Yuzu Matcha ($7.20) , a latest item that did not witness any strong fight between the citrus fruit and green tea. There is certain depth to this cake, yet it is cloud-like and clean; an unspeakable feel of déjà vu as if you were trekking in the bamboo shoots of Arashiyama. 

In an attempt to create something more American, Chef Yamashita has also launched this new "Handburger", a spongy almond Bouchee filled with assorted fruits and Chantily cream. Having the sponge by itself can be a little too sweet but not so when it is enjoyed with the fresh fruits and cream. 

That said, it might be still too early to summon a judgment as the final version will include a Kuromitsu (black sugar) mousse patty. I guessed this does not really matter as I would visit again for more and this is for sure;) 

Chef Yamashita 

1 Tanjong Pagar Plaza

#02-44 Singapore 082001

Mon-Sat 10am-6.30pm

Public Holiday 10am-4pm

Closed on Sundays

https://www.chefyamashita.com

https://www.facebook.com/chefyamashita?fref=ts

La Patissierie des Reve : Snow White's "Poisonous" Apple

What are Japanese cakes? I have been asking myself this question as I find that there is a huge gap between the cakes in Japan and the kind of "Japanese" cakes we see in Singapore. Honestly, I don't think cakes in Japan are Japanese. Like breads, cookies, chocolates, the cakes have evolved significantly over the years and are influenced by European countries, especially France.

Many renowned France patisseries from Pierre Herme to Sebastien Bouillet, have entered Japan in a bid to snatch a bite of the sweet pie. Needless to say, majority of the chefs working behind these shops are still Japanese. It's the intimate cross-influence of the culinary styles of France and Japanese that continues to intrigue me and spur me on my pastry conquest in Japan. 

And La Patissier des Reve is yet another France-originated sweets boutique that I chanced upon this time in Osaka. Opened by "Sweets Magician" Chef Phillippe Conticini, Patisserie des Reves can be found at the Umeda depachika and the interior looked exactly like its main shop in France. What caught my attention is not the perfectly crusted Choux or eclairs, but this dark sinister "apple" called CERISES (648 yen) that resembles something that the wicked witch would give to Snow White.

It is actually a classic Black Forest with all the "must-haves" components such as Kirsh-soaked groittine cherries, dark chocolate, etc. There is some brilliant techniques and elegant cacao hues in the chocolate parts that make this more than just an apple of an eye. 

Instead of the signature Paris Brest, I went for the St Honore (540 yen), something which I have a major weakness for. Even before I take a bite, I couldn't help but admire the structure, the few globules of golden Caramelized choux that stood rooted on one of the two parallel eclairs cushioned by a crunchy puff pastry base.

As my teeth cleave through it all, the sweet intense vanilla pastry cream gushed out inescapably, leaving me utterly speechless as I attempt to regain my spiritual consciousness. 

I tend to fault a Fraisier (627 yen) for the obscene amount of butter but not this one. There seemed to be two tones of cream that balanced off the unpleasantness.

Yes, another reason why you should get this instead of a strawberry shortcake next door is because the plentiful crumbly sable toppings would set one in ecstasy. 

Last but not least, the humble Tarte Aux Fraise (648 yen). No, this isn't just the usual fruit tart. Weighing a hefty compared to an average tart, the whimsical combination of the juicy strawberries, spiced crumbles and raspberry Gelee got my endorsement until the flat soggy tart shell pulled the brakes on my praises.

I took a while to come to terms with the accidental flaw and made a note to return again for other awesome pastries, especially when the price are SO reasonable that the overall excellent quality seemed too good to be true.

La Patissierie Des Reve ラ・パティスリー・デ・レーヴ

Umeda Hankyu Department Osaka outlet: Japan, 〒530-8350 Osaka Prefecture, Osaka, Kita-ku Kakudacho 8−7, Basement Food Hall

Other outlets in Kyoto

Website: http://www.lapatisseriedesreves.co.jp/

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/LPDRJ

Pierre Marcolini : Pierre Herme of the Chocolate World

If you know Pierre Herme very well, then you should know the Pierre Herme of the chocolate world, Pierre Marcolini. This former disciple of Pierre Herme had rose up the ranks to become of the most coveted chocolatier in the world and one need not be surprised at the enduring popularity of his flagship shop in Ginza.

Many, ladies especially, flocked to his cafe on 2F for the signature parfaits and waffles. But those with an extra budget to indulge would buy some of the exquisite pralines in his retail shop at 1F. 

To kill two birds (waffles and ice cream) in one stone, I instinctively picked the waffles.There are two categories here: one is Marcolini Waffles and Simple Waffles. The menu did not explicitly explain the differences but it seems like the Marcolini Waffles is blended with some extra ingredient X.

Anyway, I was relief that the quality of the waffles justify the hefty price tag. True to a classic Brussel waffle, it was light, yeasty and made into perfect regular square. It was music to the ears as the delicate crunchy sound echoes through the air. 

It is topped with fresh whipped cream that is not sweet at all. So most of the flavours emerged from the vanilla ice cream, caramel ice cream and the to-die-for salted caramel sauce. Somehow, I can feel that my waffles attracted envy looks from other tables as no one else was ordering this except me (they had parfaits). 

But the waffles come in a set, implying that one has to choose a drink no matter what. I highly recommend the Marcolini cacao tea because I guessed it is the only place in the world that one can taste chocolate in tea. Sounds illogical but the cacao flavour is highly pronounced in the pot of tea. 

While the waffles are heavenly, I think nothing beats the wickedly rich and bitter Belgium Soft Serve (see below) at his takeaway booth in Shibuya Hikarie. Despite being a bigwig in the chocolate industry, Pierre Marcolini personally searches for the cacao bean and create everything from scratch. Good to know that he has stocked up some skinny eclairs exclusively available only at this store. 

For the true gelato without incurring the dine-in cost, head to his outlet inside Tokyo station which is easily distinguished from the rest with its chic minimalist black interior. Buy the rich chocolate drink to sip on your Shinkansen ride. I bet that will attract the envy eyes of other passengers. 

Pierre Marcolini 

Ginza Outlet

〒104-0061 Ginza 5-5-8 Chuo-ku, Tokyo
TEL：03-5537-0015
OPEN：11am-8pm ※(Sun/PH)11am-7pm

For more details about the outlets and menu, visit here

Crown Bakery & Cafe: Every Crumb, Every Sip, Soul Good

 [Hainanese Chicken bread and Kaori Ciabatta]

Next time when you are craving for a plate of chicken rice, why not head to Crown Bakery to try its signature Hainanese Chicken Bread? Made with chicken soup, skinless chicken thigh, garlic, ginger, shallots and lemongrass and French mill wheat flour, this loaf is truly a brilliant rendition of our local dish especially when you dip some into the garlicky chilli sauce.

Devoting its heart and soul into sourdough and natural leaven bread without any artificial preservatives, coloring or additives, Crown Bakery is committed to crafting artisanal loaves that caters to customers who are treated as royalty at its French-inspired retail shop. 

[Elegant Earl Grey Brioche, Mellow Matcha Brioche and Sweet Macaron Croissant but the New Zealand Cheese Danish was the apple of my eye]

 

One of my favourites is the Kaori Ciabatta ($4), a masterful hybrid of European and Japanese bread with its light, crusty facet yet highly stretchable mochi-like interior. Created by Niigata-born Master Baker Katsugei Shiga, owner-chef of Signifiant Signifie in Tokyo with more than 40 years of baking experience, the Kaori Ciabatta counts as one of the "Japanese" breads including Soy Kinako Loaf ($4.80 for full/$2.70 for half), Shizuoka Matcha Brioche ($3.20), Earl Grey Cashew Brioche ($3). You can spot ingredients on the label tag such as Hokkaido Kitanokaori flour, Japan wheat flour and Shizuoka matcha powder.

That said, it is unfair to label them as "Japanese" bread because every creation here is a cross-infusion of the best ingredients sourced from the world. For instance, the Knights of the Round Table ($15) is a gorgeous bake of French butter and Japanese flour, ornamented with roasted walnuts, 50% cocoa dark chocolate and Crown's handcrafted raisin yeast. Even their Sourdough Buttermilk Waffle ($6 for maple and butter/$9 with ice cream and fruits) is another hybrid that leverages on German Sourdough, producing a wonderfully crisp yet tender treat that tickled my fancy. 

Another selling point is their Ekmeks, a Turkish sourdough bread made with cold-pressed extra virgin oil, natural leaven, French mill wheat flour. While there is Earl Grey, Honey and Red Wine Fig versions, I was drawn to Black Ekmek ($4.50),  which concealed a fluffy subtly sweet interior beneath the nutty yet brittle crust. 

On their dine-in menu are hot mains such Egg Bens($18) and the Crown Platter($29) a scrumptious Royal platter of red wine-braised oxtail, Canadian back bacon, chicken sausage, sautéed mushrooms and baked tomatoes. Everything was done in a prim and proper way, but what stole the limelight was the Crown Puff Pastry that surrounds a sunny side up egg. It was the BEST puff pastry I've ever had in Singapore; a buttery, flaky crisp golden jewel that leaves you craving for more.

The Earl Grey Tea Bread Pudding ($12) is a classic hot British pud made of Earl-grey poached pears whose fragrance is truly enlivening. Perfect if there was a pour of chilled creme anglaise. 

Good to know that there is no service charge for dine-in but customers would not be short-changed as I noticed how the staff would heat up any bread orders and slice them into smaller portions before serving. With more goodies to be introduced when they are officially opened, there are plenty of reasons to be back for more.

Crown Bakery & Cafe

557 Bukit Timah Road Crown Center, #01-03 

Sun-Thurs 7.30am-9.30pm

Fri/Sat 7.30am-10.30pm

(Dine-in menu from 9.30am onwards)

Tel: 6463-3066

www.crownbakery.com.sg

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